Farming in Vietnam

Farming in Vietnam

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Siem Reap And The Hilarious Disaster

Siem Reap - the name means 'Siem Defeated', which is hardly the most tactful name for a major city near Thailand.  The empire of Angkor once included much of modern-day Thailand, but there's a touch of irony about the name, given that Thailand ultimately defeated Cambodia and controlled Siem Reap and Angkor from 1794-1907.

Siem Reap - formally known as 'Siam' was little more than a village when French explorers discovered Angkor in the 19th century.  With the return of Angkor to Cambodian, or should that be French control in 1907, Siem Reap began to grow, absorbing the first wave of tourists.  With the advent war and the Khmer Rouge, Siem Reap entered a long slumber from which it only began to awake in the mid-1990s.

Tourism is the lifeblood of Siem Reap and without careful management it could become Siem Reapolinos, the not so Costa-del-Culture of Southeast Asia.  However, there are promising signs that developers are learning fort he mistakes that have blighted other regional hot spots, with restrictions on the height of hotels and bus sizes.  

(Thank you Lonely Planet)

This is the Golden Palace Residence.  The hotel is only 2 months old and the pool is lovely. Over the fence there is a very small, dark and uninviting pool with a black inner tyre floating in it.  We are very lucky!



This is where a lot of Cambodian blogging was done from.  You're welcome.


When we ventured out for our 20 minutes yesterday and made it to the bridge...


Where these little kiddies raced up and stood, waiting for us to take their photo. They didn't ask for money or anything, they just stood and stared at us while we stared at them.....  How gorgeous are they?



Once the evening had cooled down to a still unbearable 38 degrees we headed for the night market.  They sell everything here - your usual t-shirt/dress/bag/pashmina stalls, but they also sell dried meats, which is a good combination.


A sit down in a cool bar with a  cocktail was definitely in order and since we were the only ones in there I asked them if they would mind turning down the doof doof music.  I joked saying that we were old and had old ears..... giggle giggle.... so off she went and the music didn't get turned down, but she did change the music to olde time tunes.  It was appreciated, but we still had to ask them to turn it down.... what are we like?



To hot to wander around and a little to early for dinner, we all agreed a foot massage was in order.  Marie was forced to make her first and only decision for the holiday and pick a place.  We happened to be standing out the front of a place that had chairs out the front, but also advertised air conditioning..... and the decision was made.

We walked into a ramshackle room with old, broken leather chairs and footstools along one wall and mattresses on the floor along the other.  There were curtains that we assumed sectioned off the rooms to make the mattresses into private massage areas, but they were all ripped and falling off their railings.  There were also plastic water bottles all over the floor.  We were hot and desperate, so we stayed. There seemed to be some confusion about who was going to massage us.  The one lady (seen below in the right) started massaging Jenny and then just yelled to the people outside in Khmer.  And just kept on yelling because they wouldn't come.  Finally, Jenny was about 10 minutes into her rub down when the others joined in.


When the third person (the chap) came in he was followed by a naked boy, about 3 years old.  He turned out to be the son of the owner who was sitting outside and was quite oblivious to what he was doing inside.


He sat next to Jenny and at first she was humouring him and laughing, but that only encouraged him and his antics got more and more weird for a good massage experience.

When she started to ignore him, he just danced in front of her.

It was hilarious!


Jenny used her fan to fan herself and he thought it was a great game, so he jumped over all the chairs to go and get massage menus and would then fan her with them.


The 3 masseurs looked out the door the entire time.....


The lady rubbing Jenny's feet kept slapping the little boy's bottom and then continued to rub her legs.... we were looking at each other and nearly wetting out pants laughing.  Then she slapped his penis and that same hand, without missing a beat, went back onto Jenny's leg for more rubbing.  Ew!  


  The little boy presented Jenny with a clump of dirty hair that he found on the floor and I said, "um, no!" and ONLY THEN did the lady tell him to get down and lay on the mattress.


Towards the end of the massage 2 more children, a younger boy and an older girl, all siblings, wandered in and out in various states of undress.


 For me, it ended up being one of the better massages I've had, but poor Marie's lady thought she was digging for treasure under her leg muscles and pulled her toes so hard that the skin broke!  So she was a little sore afterwards.

As I finished up last, Marie and me Jenny were waiting outside and I walked out to marie discreetly shaking her head to some passers by who looked interested in a massage there.

We saw them a bit later in the market and they thanked us for saving them for what would possibly have been a hilarious disaster!






Hot..... Damn Hot!

I know you're probably sick of me telling you how hot it is here.... just we've only just now realised that we have come to Cambodia at the HOTTEST time of the year.  That means that we had 11 other months to choose from that would have been cooler.  Talk about a rookie mistake, except that we're not rookies.  We're seasoned travellers with research skills to the back teeth and yet we still overlooked how effin' hot it was going to be!

We arrived in Cambodia last night and were met by a gorgeous little 20 year old chap by the name of Wichard.  He has been learning English since primary school and now teaches it in his village.  He was so sweet and just couldn't do enough for us.  He didn't even raise an eyebrow when he offered us a drink in the car and me Jenny and I opted for the cold beer.

Originally we had booked into a hotel that was recommended by my Aunty Alison and Uncle Bill - The Golden Temple Hotel, but a few weeks before we left Perth I got an email saying that they'd 'upgraded' us to The Golden Temple Residence.  Not only that, but they were offering us a complimentary massage each and a dinner and for 3 - Bonus!

It was my turn to get to share a room with Marie, so Jenny had her own room, which was lovely..... then when they showed us ours, it was also lovely, however it was as hot as hell.  We played with the air-conditioning for a bit but it didn't help.  I called the front desk who said that they would check it out whilst we headed out for dinner.

On our return, they said that maintenance had fixed the aircon.  We went upstairs and because we were hot, we couldn't tell if the room was hot or not.  I had a cold shower and sat in my nightie and within 2 minutes I was sweating and in need of another shower.  


I called the front desk again and without hesitation, Sophia (who was on her first shift with the hotel) organised us a different room.  She insisted we go up and see it first to make sure we would be happy.  So off we trundled - me in my nightie to look at the room.  It was great, except that it only had one bed.  Before we could say "could we have another bed please" another bed had been organised.  So back we trundled, packed all our stuff, moved it upstairs to our new digs. More showers were had and Marie relaid out all her bathroom accessories and after about 20 minutes we had to turn down the air conditioner.


So, today when we got up, we planned to check out the town, but we made it to the market, looked around for about 20 minutes and then had to come back for fear of passing out on the street.  We hit the pool and didn't leave until we were shrivelled and it had cooled down significantly.




The Leigh Show

People watching at the airport is fantastic.  Families racing around, men who have lost their luggage, women who can't understand why their husband just didn't book when she told him to then they wouldn't be in this mess...... I just love to get a snippet of people's lives, even if just for a fleeting moment.

Well, yesterday was no exception.

We were standing in the line to check in and behind us were a group of about 7 gentlemen.  They were all standing there quietly until one of the chaps, an American with tips in his hair started berating one of the other men, a Vietnamese chap because he wouldn't let him stop for 5 minutes to get a coffee.  Their tone suggested that they were a couple.

Vietnamese Chap: "I just wanted to get us to the airport on time."
Hair Tip Guy: "No.  You were just blowing me off.  Don't blow me off like that."
Vietnamese Chap: "I thought you could get a coffee once we got here."
Hair Tip Guy: "No. You've been like this since we got here.  Just don't blow me off.  I don't like it when you do that."
The Vietnamese Chap looked down trodden and at one point wheeled his bag out of the line and looked like he was flouncing off.
Hair Tip Guy: "I guess I just don't take 'no' for an answer.  I guess I have to work on taking 'no' for an answer (he didn't look happy about this revelation!)
The Vietnamese chap came back and stood there for a moment when he must have had an idea.....

(Next to our line two of the check in counters were closed off because about 12 men were checking in about 100 boxes for Forever 21.  There seemed to be a hold up with the boxes so ......)

He worked his way through the throng of Forever 21 men to get to the man in charge and then spoke in Vietnamese.  The man nodded in agreement (of something....)  the next minute he was collecting the passports from his hair tipped partner and the other gentlemen in the posse and they were pushing in front of us to check into the 'closed' counter.  Apparently, according to the 2 men who stayed standing behind us (just in case they weren't allowed to join the illegal check in) a bit of money was slipped into he passports for the man in charge.  We were the next in line, which means they were straight after us, but they clearly didn't want to wait so that hair tip guy could get a coffee.  Once their bags were on the Vietnamese chap gave the hair tip guy some dong and he ran to the coffee shop...... the two guys behind us were heard to say, "I don't know why we always have to pander to him.  I mean, we eat when he wants to eat and we do what he wants to do.  This trip has become The Leigh Show!"

So they were all checked in, none of them felt bad about pushing in, hair tip guy got his coffee and he and the Vietnamese chap seemed to have made up.

Then, they were gone.... just a small snippet into their lives.  Sometimes that's all you need!


Farewell Mrs Dobson

Our last night together as an awesome foursome as Chris must leave us to fly home and be with her kiddies for her eldest son, Koji's birthday, which is today, the 7th April.  

Happy Birthday Koji

  I hope you appreciate her boys, she's missed you terribly the whole time she's been away.  Koj, our present to you is letting your Mum go home early.  

You're welcome. xxx

  Koji                                        Tommy

So on our last night we thought we'd try a gorgeous little restaurant called 

Huong Lei

You can find it here
38 Ly Tu Trong
Ho Chi Minh City



Open since 2001, Huong Lei employ staff who are former street children, orphans and youth from very poor families.  They are providing them with an opportunity to better their lives.

The food was amazing, the staff were fantastic, the atmosphere and the building were charming..... there are no reasons not to try this place.

Seeya Chri (Chris' Vietnamese name) It's been such a great trip..... Let's do it again!




Monday, April 6, 2015

The Saigon Underground


The tunnels of Cù Chi are an immense network of connection underground tunnels located at the Cù Chi district of Ho Chi Minh City and are part of a much larger network of tunnels that underlie much of the country.  The Cù Chi tunnels  were the location of several military campaigns during the Vietnam War, and were the Viet Cong's base of operations.

The tunnels were used by Viet Cong soldiers as hiding spots during combat, as well as serving as communication and supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon caches and living quarters for numbers North Vietnamese fighters.  The tunnel systems were of great importance to the Viet Cong in their resistance to the American forces and helped to counter the growing American miliarty effort.

The 121km long complex of tunnels at Cù Chi has been preserved by the government of Vietnam and turned into a war memorial park with two different tunnel display sites, Ben Dinh and Ben Duoc.  The tunnels are a popular tourist attraction and visitors are invited to crawl around in the safer parts of the tunnel system.  The Ben Duoc site contains pats of the original system, while the Ben Dinh site, closer to Saigon, has tunnel reconstructions and some tunnels have been made larger to accommodate the larger size of western tourists.  In both sites low power lights have been installed in the tunnels to make travelling through them easier.

(Thanks wikipedia)

We took a tour with "Les Rives - Authentic River Experience" which was recommended to us by our lovely friend, and South East Asian travel extraordinaire - Mrs Shelley Wilton.  She said it was awesome and indeed, she was right.

As we were lining up to board our boat we heard someone scuffing along in their thongs.  It was a little bogan chap, who pushed his way in front of us, just in case he missed out on a spot.

On our boat there were 4 young British girls in shorts that were way too short, a lovely American family with 4 gorgeous daughters, the little bogan and us.  He bustled down to befriend the English girls.

We were all handed life jackets and asked to put them on….. everybody put theirs on except….. him.  When our guide said, “Everyone must put on the life jacket please.”  He replied his bogan Australian accent “What? Do we have to put it on?”

Just put it on you little twerp! is what we were all thinking.....

So he slung it around his shoulders with a look on his face that was trying to say 'I'll put it on, but I so totally don't need it bro"


We took off up the Saigon River which sailed us past some of the poorest areas in Ho Chi Minh City..... and possibly the world.


The river and it's banks are also filled with rubbish.  It was heartbreaking to cruise through plastic bags and bottles and random trash and even more heartbreaking to watch people toss it in there without an ounce of guilt or concern.


Once we were out of the residential area, the captain gave it to her and let her rip, weaving in and out and around the massive growth of water hyacinths.



This is Chris imitating her gorgeous nephew, Wes


The river is a life source for some people who live it...


 breathe it....


.... and fish in it.


This is our lovely guide who was extremely knowledgable and friendly.


He guided us through the maze of tunnels (above ground) and some of our group had a go underground.  The four of us kept our eyes on the sky.  The size of the tunnels is just incredible.  I don't think I know anyone small enough to fit into these rabbit warrens (and I know a lot of kids!) I certainly wasn't going to be the first person to get stuck!


Now you see him.......


The tunnels were also filled with traps, so if they were ever discovered, that was pretty much as far as they would get.

The traps were creatively barbaric.  It would be interesting to know where they came up with their ideas.

















Apparently the tunnels were built using all sorts of bits of metal - whatever they could find, like pieces of shrapnel!


The tunnels were so intricate that they had three levels and air vents.


When we got off the boat, our tour guide told everyone to take a bottle of water before leaving... in fact, he handed everyone a bottle to make sure everyone had one.

We all trekked the 100 or so metres to the first lot of toilets (or Happy Rooms, as they are called here) and as we're standing there waiting for people, the little chap said to our tour guide, "Hey, I'm so hungover hey.  Have you got any water Bro, I'm so dry cause I'm so hungover hey."  The tour guide looked confused as he had already handed our the water, and he said, "No, the water is back on the boat."  The little bogan replied, "Oh right, cause it's just that I'm sooooo hungover."  And the guide gave him his own bottle!

I was starting to loathe this little man even though I didn't know him from Adam.  He reminded me LOT of that twit that was on the news a couple of years ago for throwing a party that got out of hand and trashed his parents house - Corey Whatshisface.


Anyway.... moving on.

Because they had to make everything they needed right here in the tunnels, somebody had to be on shoe duty.  These candles are made out of old tyres and Jenny said she read somewhere that they somehow made them or wore them so that the tread would look like they were walking in the opposite direction - smart cookies! 



There were Health bunkers and Dining bunkers and Meeting bunkers....

We got to the Health Bunker which was like a mini hospital and Old Mate says loudly enough for anyone to hear.... "I'll only go down there if they've got a cure for a hangover." and then proceeds to laugh riotously at his own 'joke'.


There were mannequins dressed in soldiers outfits in a few areas around the grounds where people were taking photos posing with them.  Our guide asked if anyone wanted to pose for a photo..... Guess who should pipe up?  And now guess what he said..... "Can they cure a hangover?  Cause I'll pose with them if they can."  Cue laughter.  He didn't seem to realise that nobody was listening to him, not were they being drawn in to the conversation he was so desperate to have.  Not even his new found best friends, the English girls, who probably thought they had drawn the short straw with him tagging along behind them.

Little did they know that they could happily go on the merry holiday safe in the knowledge that they probably won't see him again.... Jenny and I, on the other hand, may bump into him as he lives in Mandurah! - Meadow Springs to be more precise.  Maureen, do you know him?


We were coming to the end of our tour and the last little bit was sitting in an open, wallless room with fans to watch a documentary.  However, the electricity had gone out and nobody knew what was going on.  So we sat there in the shade for a while and as we did Chris spotted this multi coloured lizard type creature.  We thought that he might be a confused chameleon.  He sat on that tree quite still while we all took photos of him.


The doco was a washout, so we headed back the boat to have a delicious luncheon on the dock before heading back to Saigon.


On the way back I think we all contemplated on just how lucky we are to live where we do.

(except that we live near the little twerp, other than that though - we're pretty lucky!)